Sewing with Denim: A Comprehensive Guide

Denim, with its durability and timeless appeal, has been a staple fabric for decades! From classic jeans to trendy skirts to even bags, denim is a highly popular item that will probably never stopped being used. However, sewing with denim can be intimidating for beginners and experienced sewists alike due to its thickness and stiffness. With the right techniques and a few tips, you can confidently tackle any denim project. In this guide, we'll walk you through everything you need to know to master the art of sewing with denim.

Choose the Right Denim: Not all denim is created equal. When selecting denim for your project, consider the weight, stretch, and color. Lighter weight denim is suitable for garments like shirts and dresses, while heavier weight denim is ideal for jeans and outerwear. Additionally, stretch denim provides extra comfort and ease of movement, especially for fitted garments. This guide will not go too far into sewing with stretch denim, but more cover a generic overview of working with denim.

Choosing the Right Equipment:
To sew with denim fabric successfully, you'll need the appropriate tools:
  • Sewing machine: A standard sewing machine should work for sewing with light to medium weight denim, but a heavy duty sewing machine may be needed for thicker denim fabrics
  • Thread: Opt for a strong, durable all purpose thread for lighter weight denims, or try actual denim thread. This thread is normally thicker and more durable than regular thread. In addition, this thread can have a special dye that helps it look more like the color pattern of denim.
  • Needles: Denim is thick so be sure to use heavy-duty needles designed for denim such as jeans needles. These needles have a reinforced shaft that can penetrate multiple layers of denim without breaking.
  • Cutting tools: Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat will make it easier to cut through the adhesive backing without damaging the sequins. Note: the adhesive backing may get on your scissors or rotary cutter so be prepared to clean it with a makeup remover wipe or use older supplies in case of damage
  • Sewing Jumper: These tools can be useful for helping your presser foot go through multiple layers of denim. This may be a better option for medium weight to heavy duty denim.

Preparation is Key: Before cutting into your denim fabric, it's essential to prewash and preshrink it. Denim has a tendency to shrink, so washing and drying it before sewing will prevent your finished garment from shrinking later on. Be sure to follow the care instructions on the fabric label to avoid any mishaps. As with any new fabrics or garments, wash denim on it's own to prevent the color from bleeding into other fabrics

Adjust Your Sewing Machine Settings: When sewing denim, adjust your sewing machine settings accordingly. Increase the stitch length to accommodate the thickness of the fabric and prevent skipped stitches. A longer stitch length (around 3mm to 3.5mm) will ensure smooth and even stitching. A normal presser foot should work for most makes, but if you struggle with the machine moving the fabric try a walking foot. In addition, there are specific presser feet available for hemming denim due to the thickness.

Use Proper Stitching Techniques: Denim requires strong and secure seams to withstand wear and tear. Opt for sturdy seam finishes like flat-felled seams, double topstitching, or serged edges using a four thread overlock stitch to reinforce your seams and prevent fraying. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam for extra durability.

Press: When working with denim, pressing is your best friend. Unlike ironing, which involves sliding the iron back and forth, pressing involves placing the iron down and lifting it straight up to avoid stretching or distorting the fabric. Use a hot iron and steam to flatten seams and creases, giving your denim project a professional finish. Some denim can be ironed without a problem though, so be sure to test this out before making your final garment!

Projects: There are so many fun projects you can try with denim that aren't just making pants! Try using a lightweight or medium weight denim for skirts, dresses, or even a skort! These can be so fun to make and perfect for multiple seasons. Other ideas could be a bag, book cover, or even a footrest! Denim projects can really include anything that you want! 

In conclusion, sewing with denim doesn't have to be daunting. By following these tips and techniques, you can confidently tackle denim projects of any size and complexity. Remember to choose the right denim, prep your fabric properly, use the right tools and techniques, and practice patience and persistence. With a little practice and creativity, you'll soon be sewing stylish denim creations like a pro! What other tips do you have for sewing with denim material? Let me know! 

Be sure to check out my Amazon Storefront for sewing supplies mentioned in this post! This is an affiliate link, so thank you for supporting me if you select to shop from it :) 

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