How to Add Extra Fabric to a Waistband to Make Pants Larger
If you have a pair of pants that fit everywhere except the waistband, there’s an easy alteration you can do to gain an extra inch or two without replacing the entire band. This method adds small “slice” insets at the back waistband—perfect for jeans, trousers, and even leggings. Note: This works best for small changes such as around two inches.
Below is the exact process I used to expand the waistband evenly on both sides. There is a video tutorial as well!
1. Mark the Expansion Area
Turn the pants so the back is facing up. Locate the center back seam (this is your midpoint). From that center point, measure out an equal distance on each side and mark it.
I marked 4 inches to the left and 4 inches to the right. These marks show where the new fabric slices will be inserted.
2. Draft the “Slice” Pattern Piece
Create a small wedge-shaped pattern piece for the extra fabric you'll add.
My waistband was 2 inches tall, and I wanted to add 1 inch of fabric on each side. To allow for seam allowance, I drafted a triangle that was:
1.5 inches wide at the top
2.5 inches wide from the top to the point of the triangle.
The extra ½ inch on each measurement accounts for seam allowance when sewing.
3. Cut the Fabric Slices
Cut four pieces total using your new slice pattern.
I used a ribbed knit because it keeps some stretch, but you can also use knit elastic or another stretchy fabric for comfort and flexibility.
4. Sew the Slice Pairs
Match each pair of slices right sides together and pin along the straight top edge.
Serge this seam on both pairs.
5. Fold and Finish the Edges
Fold each slice so the wrong sides are together, forming a finished wedge shape.
Serge the two diagonal edges to clean them up.
Repeat for both slices.
6. Cut the Waistband Open
On the pants, cut straight down at each of your markings to create an opening for the fabric slices.
Repeat at the second mark so you have two openings.
7. Finish the Raw Edges
Serge the raw edges of the waistband openings. This helps prevent fraying and gives you a clean surface to sew onto.
8. Set Up Your Sewing Machine
Switch your machine to:
A walking foot (helps layers feed evenly)
A ballpoint needle (best for knits)
A lightning stitch (ideal for stretch fabrics)
9. Attach the First Slice
With right sides together, match one diagonal edge of the slice to one edge of the waistband opening. Pin and sew the seam.
10. Attach the Second Side of the Slice
Match the other diagonal edge to the opposite side of the waistband opening. Sew the seam.
You now have a triangular wedge inserted into the waistband.
11. Repeat for the Second Slice
Insert the second slice using the same method on the other marking.
Your Waistband Is Now Larger!
After both slices are attached, your waistband will have expanded evenly by the exact amount you planned. This small modification can add comfort and extend the wearability of pants that were just a bit too snug. Looking for more sewing ideas? Check out my YouTube channel and my Amazon storefront! Note: I may make a small commission from my Amazon storefront and links in this blog post. Thank you for supporting me :) Happy sewing!
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